Artículos de revista (ISEM)
Permanent URI for this collectionhttps://hdl.handle.net/10171/58510
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- Balenciaga, licensee of Maison Vionnet(Oxford University Press, 2022) Balda-Arana, A. (Ana)Cristóbal Balenciaga’s initial period in Spain (1917–1936), when he was working to develop himself as a couturier and consolidate his business in the luxury sector, is less known than his Parisian period (1937–1968), due to the scarcity of available information. This article analyses the designer as a buyer of haute couture licenses during that initial period. His biographers claim that in the early years of his professional development Balenciaga would attend to the presentations of prestigious French Maisons where he acquired pieces that he later sold in his establishment in San Sebastián, and that he studied to improve his own technique. Among these Maisons is that of Madeleine Vionnet. However, the restrictive licensing policy applied by the French couturière, puts in doubt the idea that Balenciaga had once been authorized to acquire pieces from her collections. Based on research in the archives of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris and the Archives de Paris, and in the Spanish, French and North American press published between 1920 and 1930, this article provides new findings that confirm the existence of just such a commercial relationship. It reveals when it emerged, specifies which Vionnet pieces Balenciaga acquired and studies the influence of Vionnet’s technique and aesthetics on some of the Basque couturier’s creations prior to his establishment in Paris.
- La estética sostenible en el diseño de Dieter Rams y Ross Lovegrove(2021) Chen, M.H. (Mei Hsin)El objetivo de este artículo es examinar cómo Dieter Rams y Ross Lovegrove conciben la noción de la estética sostenible. La mayoría de los estudios que abordan la relación entre la sostenibilidad o el diseño sostenible y la estética en el contexto del diseño de producto parten de la premisa de que lo sostenible y lo estético, cada uno con su entidad propia, son componentes independientes y yuxtapuestos que están presentes en un diseño actual con miras medioambientales. Desde esta perspectiva, lo estético suele desempeñar el rol de ornamentar o embellecer el material o la estructura sostenible a posteriori. El presente artículo propone un planteamiento distinto de dicha concepción decorativa basada en un proceso asincrónico: en lugar de entender el diseño sostenible y la estética como dos piezas de puzle independientes que intentan encajar la una en la otra, argumentamos que la sostenibilidad y la estética son coprincipio de un buen diseño de producto, con el que asociamos “la estética sostenible”, y que se necesitan mutuamente en el desarrollo ecoestratégico, tal como consideran Rams y Lovegrove.
- La contribución del arte a la comunicación sobre el cambio climático(2022) Chen, M.H. (Mei Hsin)Este artículo examina el porqué y cómo el proyecto contra el cambio climático necesita la colaboración de artistas para afrontar los retos climáticos desde la perspectiva psicológica. Las personas artistas pueden tanto actuar como amortiguadores entre el público y los datos científicos como motivar un diálogo más enriquecedor a través del impacto del arte que aborda el cambio climático. En otras palabras, los(as) artistas desempeñan un papel cada vez más destacado en la concienciación y en la participación del público en el problema climático. Pueden convertir sus obras en herramientas eficaces para la comunicación sobre el cambio climático gracias a una serie de cualidades psicológicas que brindan las obras de arte. El mensaje que transmite una obra de arte climática transciende la mera comunicación intelectual porque apela a las emociones del espectador, le invita a contemplar e interiorizar la realidad climática, le inspira y logra que aspire a tomar decisiones y acciones orientadas a cambiar el futuro de nuestro planeta.
- The nondualistic aesthetics of QI 氣 in Antoni Tàpies' holistic conception of art(2020) Chen, M.H. (Mei Hsin)Antoni Tàpies’ writings and interviews unveil his holistic conception of art, which was profoundly influenced by the Chinese nondualistic aesthetics of qi 氣 and the idea of yi wu liang ti 一物兩體 (one object but two states). He considers the creation of art a dynamic process animated by the constant flow of qi and constituted by the artist, medium, artwork, and audience.
- El arte paraficcional de UBERMORGEN(2021) Chen, M.H. (Mei Hsin)El objetivo de este artículo es analizar el entorno que ha facilitado la evolución de la paraficción como tendencia, llevándola a ocupar una posición significativa en el arte contemporáneo actual, y en particular en el del siglo XXI. El texto examina cómo las circunstancias sociales y políticas, junto con un extenso desarrollo tecnológico a escala mundial, han generado un impacto drástico en nuestra percepción de la verdad, propiciando una atmósfera adecuada para artistas como el dúo UBERMORGEN. El trabajo de este dúo ejemplifica cómo estos creadores utilizan prácticas paraficcionales con el fin de examinar la posverdad contemporánea y cuestionar las noticias falsas, para lo cual emplean estrategias radicales de medios sociales y métodos no convencionales, como la alucinación consensual.
- Antoni Tàpies' Hybrid Conception of Work of Art: Thingness, Playfulness, and Experience(2020) Chen, M.H. (Mei Hsin)Antoni Tàpies conferred new meanings to everyday things through his singular creative processes and material-object arrangements. Moreover, he brought the objects, materials, and subjects of art into a sensorial and intellectual play to achieve a sui generis view of art. The analysis of his hybrid conception of artwork has three points of exploration. First, he questioned the character of the thingness of artwork as well as thingness in work of art. Second, his artistic creations achieved an exceptional sense of playfulness through the recontextualisation of words, things, everyday objects, and matter. Third, influenced by East Asian aesthetic schools of thought, Tàpies’ works of art display change and transience as the essence of material things, which are, together with the idea of hybrid or hybridisation, the protagonists of his art. At the same time, Tàpies invited the audience of his art to question its meaning, to be its cocreator, and to meditate on it.
- Social media influence on consumer behavior: The case of mobile telephony manufacturers(MDPI AG, 2020) Mir-Bernal, P. (Pedro); Polo-López, M. (Marc); Fondevila-Gascón, J.F. (Joan Francesc); Rom-Rodríguez, J. (Josep)Both broadband society and cloud journalism strengthen the use of social networks in order to achieve engagement between the brand and the end user. The various productive sectors try to optimize their online marketing strategies in networks in order to reach most of their potential audience. Such is the case of telecommunications sector, which is inherently linked with communication. With the aim of discovering social media influence on consumer behavior, in this quantitative research we analyze the use of social networks Facebook, YouTube, Twitter and Instagram by Samsung, Apple, Xiaomi and BQ as the axis of promotion of their products, increase of web traffic, improvement of the image of the company or the brand and obtaining brand notoriety. Bearing in mind that the mobile telephony sector is particularly competitive in Spain, it is concluded that the activity of mobile phone manufacturers in social media is positive, and, regarding consumer behavior, that no significant difference is detected between the average of ratings of the advertising of mobile telephony in the social networks, neither in the influence of the same by gender nor by age ranges.
- Description of the exposure of the most-followed spanish instamom's children to social medias(MDPI, 2022) García, P. (Pilar); Cavallaro, G. (Giacomo); González-Caballero, J.L. (Juan Luis); Raffaeli, G. (Genny); Merino, M. (María); Vacaroaia, A. (Alex); Sanmiguel, P. (Patricia); Arribas-Sánchez, C. (Cristina); Iriso, I. (Isabel); Couso, B. (Beatriz); Álvarez, A. (Alexandra); Garrido-Martínez-de-Salazar, F. (Felipe)There is evidence of the risk of overexposure of children on social networks by parents working as influencers. A cross-sectional study of the profiles of the sixteen most-followed Instamoms in Spain was carried out. An analysis of these profiles was performed over a full month (April 2022), three times a week, to describe the representation of influencers’ children in the posts shared by them, as well as their role in the Instamoms’ marketing. A total of 192 evaluations of the profiles were performed in the study period. The average number of children exposed by an Instamom was three, generally preschoolers and schoolchildren. The children appear in a context of the family home and accompanied by their mother. The type of advertising that accompanies the appearance of underage children is usually women or children’s clothing, but also food products, leisure, etc. Appearance of children in the posts had a statistically significant influence on followers measured by the number of likes. Results provided the identification of two Instamom clusters with differentiated behaviors in relation to appearance of children in posts. It is important to involve Social Pediatrics in the protection of the privacy and interests of children given the increase in sharenting. The authors believe that there are concerns about their explicit consent to public exposure from early childhood and about the medium and long-term effect that this may have on their future well-being.
- Editorial: Fashion communication: Between tradition and digital transformation(Scoms, 2018) Sadaba-Garraza, T. (Teresa); Kalbaska, N. (Nadzeya); Cantoni, L. (Lorenzo)We are happy and thrilled to introduce this thematic section of Studies in Communication Sciences (SComS), devoted to Fashion Communication. It was about two years ago when we first discussed the idea in Madrid: then we got the approval by SComS Editors, published the call, and eventually secured the outstanding collection of papers you have in your hands (or on your screen). A long and enriching journey, full of interactions, conversations, views and reviews, a journey that makes the scholar’s work so fascinating (even if, sometimes, not that fashionable).
- Scarcity as a desirable attribute of luxury fashion brands in millennial marketing(Faculty of Economics and Business, University of Zagreb, 2019) Ballina, I. (Isabel) de la; Ballina, J.F. (Javier F.) de laPurpose – Marketing literature considers scarcity a mechanism that increases the desirability of the off er and an inherent attribute of luxury products. This market needs to capture the millennial segment. The objective of this paper is to develop a proper scarcity strategy to be used when connecting luxury brands to millennials. Design/methodology/approach – An empirical study based on an experimental design was carried out to test the eff ect of each of the strategies (second line, my luxury, or exclusive selection of cheaper products) on different dimensions of how millennials perceive luxury brands (refi nement, elitism, and hedonism), looking for causality relationships. Findings – The hedonism factor, closely connected with purchase experience, seems to be the most valuable for millennials and best encouraged by the second line strategy. In this way, luxury brands draw millennials into their market in a natural way, through an accessible price. But the second line strategy could imply a process of brand devaluation for the traditional customer base. Limitations – The diff erence in the results obtained using the “current shopping intention” and “future shopping intention” variables deserves more attention. Different ways of measuring future shopping intention could be applied to test the eff ects on the results. Originality/value – A diff erent methodology, that is, an experimental study is presented to compare marketing strategies in the luxury market. In this way, a better relationship between exclusivity and the needs of millennials can be established as regards their attraction to luxury brands.